How Climber Adam Ondra Is Training for 2020 Tokyo Olympics

When mountain climbing debuts on the 2020 Olympic Games in Tokyo, it should seemingly be remembered because the watershed second of a once-fringe exercise gone mainstream. Undoubtedly, the game has skilled a surge in reputation over the previous few years, with movies like Free Solo and The Dawn Wall serving to to broaden the attraction as climbing gyms pop up across the nation, however Tokyo will formally put it on the map. Whether you’re a climber or not, it’s going to make for spectacular tv—from a closely debated format that can include three separate disciplines (lead climbing, bouldering, and pace climbing) to the freakish athleticism of climbers like Slovenian phenom Janja Garnbret and Bavarian powerhouse Alex Megos. But regardless of who stands atop the rostrum in July, maybe the best spectacle that viewers can be handled to is the brilliance of Adam Ondra.

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As mountain climbing transitions into the limelight, this 26-year-old Czech skilled climber is the torchbearer redefining what’s potential within the sport at present. To put his dominance into perspective, contemplate this: In 2012, Ondra completed a route named Change in Hanshelleren Cave in Flatanger, Norway, and instructed it was probably the most troublesome route ever climbed when he proposed the grade of 5.15c on the Yosemite Decimal System. (Editor’s notice: The grade hasn’t been confirmed as a result of nobody else has accomplished it.) More not too long ago, he returned to Hanshelleren Cave in 2017 and made historical past when he topped out on Silence, the world’s hardest sport climb with a proposed grade of 5.15d, which can be but to see a second ascent.

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Taking his talent set indoors, nonetheless, has required Ondra to undertake a completely completely different coaching routine, as he’s largely stayed away from the competitors circuit since 2015. Complicating issues additional, like most different lead climbers and boulderers, he has just about no prior expertise in pace climbing.

Recently, we caught up with Ondra to study how the world’s best rock climber is making ready his thoughts and physique for the Olympic stage.

Lukas Biba/ Courtesy Image

What’s your coaching routine like for the Olympics, and the way does it differ from coaching for an out of doors venture like Silence?

When I used to be coaching for Silence, I used to be coaching very particularly for that venture. It was essential to mix coaching on rock with coaching within the health club. I used to be coaching for the endurance it required and in addition for energy within the very particular sorts of handholds and footholds and physique positions that I wanted. For the Olympics, I’m principally coaching within the health club, so I’m operating laps on the usual pace wall. I’m coaching on the bouldering wall. Also, one other distinction is that bouldering within the competitions has modified lots in the previous couple of years when it comes to type. It’s very completely different from what bouldering is like on actual rock. It’s far more dynamic and coordination-demanding. Bouldering on actual rock, which I’m extra used to climbing on, is much more static and requires principally finger energy, whereas competition-style boulder issues are about coordination. For that, you simply have to coach within the health club. It doesn’t actually assist that a lot, within the brief time period, to coach on actual rock.

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How do you mentally put together for the strain of competitors climbing, particularly if you’re acting on a stage as large because the Olympics?

The strain in our sport is large. In lead climbing and bouldering, the routes are fully new they usually’re set particularly for this competitors. There are a number of selections that we’re making and it’s very troublesome to make a quick choice underneath such strain. Dealing with that is undoubtedly a giant a part of the sport. One method is making an attempt to simulate competitions just about each time I’m coaching, however proper earlier than the competitors it’s essential to do some type of workout routines, principally based mostly in yoga or meditation. That helps me to calm down and be assured.

What’s your method to food regimen and diet? Do you keep away from sure meals?

This is essential to me. I’m at the moment on a food regimen that’s based mostly on conventional Chinese drugs. My food regimen is generally composed of whole-grain cereals, legumes, beans, lentils. Lots of cooked, baked, or steamed greens. Lots of spices like curcumin or cumin that assist assist digestion. Some superfoods. Especially within the winter months, I’m avoiding uncooked greens and even most uncooked fruits. For meat, I eat principally high-quality fish and hen. Some different issues that I’m undoubtedly avoiding are white flour, dairy, and sugar. I feel if you happen to simply keep away from these three issues, that’s begin.

Jan Kriz/ Courtesy Image

On your YouTube sequence Road to Tokyo, you latterly shared that you just principally coached your self till you had been 20 years previous however that nowadays you’re coached by legendary climber Patxi Usobiaga. How does having a coach like Patxi change the best way you prepare?

When I began with Patxi, I concentrated extra on defining the periodization of coaching, like when you need to prepare at the next quantity or lower down the quantity and solely give attention to the standard. Now, I usually prepare at a a lot increased quantity till proper earlier than competitions after which it’s a lot much less. Having a coach and, most significantly, somebody you can focus on your coaching program with, provides you a number of confidence. It’s not solely you who developed the coaching program, which is principally like a device that ought to take you from coaching to the competitors in the very best form. Working with Patxi provides me the arrogance that I’m coaching the best manner.

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Bernardo Gimenez/ Courtesy Image

What do you do on the morning of a contest? Do you will have any kind of particular warmup ritual or meals that you just eat?

After I get up, I usually drink some black tea and do pranayama, a type of yoga for rest. For breakfast, I often have oatmeal, generally candy and generally salted with greens. Then I simply go for it. During the competitors rounds, after lunch I actually like doing yoga nidra, which helps me to be extra relaxed simply earlier than the competitors.

The Olympic format consists of 1 relaxation day between the qualifying and championship rounds. What’s your technique for restoration and caring for your physique through the day without work?

At the Olympics, I’ll undoubtedly have my conventional Chinese physician. He’ll deal with me based mostly on my state, so I’ll simply let him do his job. Other than that, I feel on that specific day crucial factor is simply to relax out and keep within the resort room. Maybe go for a little bit stroll, however strolling round in Tokyo in 40°C [104°F] warmth and excessive humidity may very well be actually tiring. I don’t need to be too energetic as a result of the ultimate rounds will begin the subsequent day within the afternoon and there can be a number of time to get the physique going.

During the bouldering and lead climbing rounds, rivals have to attend in an isolation space to allow them to’t see one another’s technique whereas climbing. What do you do whilst you’re ready to your flip? Do have any particular strategies to remain calm and unfastened?

I attempt to not actually take into consideration the competitors itself as a result of I’m all the time placing strain on myself once I’m coaching as a way to carry out at my very, easiest. When I’m within the isolation space, I principally simply heat up the identical manner I might heat up for coaching. There are different rivals who I’m mates with, so there’s a number of chatting and simply speaking about random stuff. I actually attempt to focus solely like 15 minutes earlier than I truly begin climbing.

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